Tignon
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A young Creole woman in a tignon of her own creation. Note that the rosette in the tignon is repeated as either a brooch or in the linen at her neck. Painting from the Historic New Orleans Collection.
A West Indian Flower Girl and Two other Free Women of Color,
Agostino Brunias, circa 1769.
[1]
A
tignon (also spelled and pronounced tiyon) is a type of headcovering. A large piece of material tied or wrapped around the head to form a kind of turban that somewhat resembles the
West African Gele. It was worn by
Creole women of African descent in
Louisiana beginning in the
Spanish colonial period, and continuing to a lesser extent to the present day.
Contents
Tignon Law
This headdress was the result of
sumptuary laws passed in 1786 under the administration of Governor
Esteban Rodriguez Miró. Called the
tignon laws, they prescribed and enforced appropriate public dress for female
gens de couleur in colonial society. At this time in Louisiana history, women of African descent vied with white women in beauty, dress and manners. One of their most standout physical attributes that separated them from their white female counterparts was their hair. Women of African descent would often adorn their hair with colorful jewelry, beads and other accents, demonstrating an exotic appearance which attracted the attention of white male suitors. Many of them had become the girlfriends and
placées (openly kept mistresses) of white, French, and Spanish Creole men. This perceived threat to white women's relationships with French and Spanish Creole men incurred the jealousy and anger of their wives, mothers, sisters, daughters and fiancées.
With the looming threat to the social status of white women growing and the attention garnered as a result of the jewelry adorned hairstyles from women of African descent, action was required. To correct this, Governor Miró decreed that women of African descent, slave or free, should cover their hair and heads with a knotted headdress and refrain from "excessive attention to dress" to maintain
class distinctions.
Historian Virginia M. Gould notes that Miró hoped the law would control women “who had become too light skinned or who dressed too elegantly, or who, in reality, competed too freely with white women for status and thus threatened the social order.”
[2]
Afro-Créole protest
Miró's intent of having the tignon mark inferiority had a somewhat different effect, according to historian Carolyn Long
[3] who noted: "Instead of being considered a badge of dishonor, the tignon…became a fashion statement. The bright reds, blues, and yellows of the scarves, and the imaginative wrapping techniques employed by their wearers, are said to have enhanced the beauty of the women of color."
The women who were targets of this decree were inventive and imaginative. They decorated tignons with their jewels and ribbons, and used the finest available materials to wrap their hair. In other words, "[t]hey effectively re-interpreted the law without technically breaking the law"
[4]—and they continued to be pursued by men.
Legacy
Using that scholarship, historian Fernin F. Eaton, a Louisiana native, suggests
sagging (fashion) may be an ironic and modern twist on that defiant Afro-Créole women's protest movement. Eaton opines that while Miró's 1786 edict singled out women for acting "too white," a modern-day version of sumptuary law, i.e., efforts to prohibit the practice of saggin', arguably singles out (largely) black males for not acting "white enough."
[5] Saggin' may evidence a continuation of that Afro-Créole defiance, in recognition that African-American males, especially in Louisiana,
[6] are disproportionately incarcerated.
[7]
Tignons past and present
The tignon can be wrapped in many ways, and it was and is worn in a different way by every woman.
Madras was a popular fabric for tignons among both free and enslaved populations, and has become iconic. Tignons were often created out of mis-matched scraps of undyed fabric given to slaves by their masters. The patchwork of material was made to appear festive. Tignons worn by free women of color or enslaved women in Martinique, Guadeloupe, and Dominica even had hidden messages.
[8]
The tignon is experiencing a revival in Louisiana. It is found particularly in Creole-themed weddings. Celebrities such as
Erykah Badu and
Jill Scott continue to wear headdresses, as a celebration of Afro-American culture.
NEVER FORGET #021: Black Women’s Hair Was Once Illegal
Above The Fold /
Activism /
Never Forget / February 3, 2016
Black hair has long been a topic of discussion, if not a cornerstone, of the Black community. It is an integral part of Black identity, especially for women. While our hair and what it means to us individually may be unique, what is universal for all Black women is that our locks are closely tied to our beauty, or perception thereof. That’s why we go to such great lengths to care for and protect Black hair, not just in the literal sense, but also from outsiders who try to change or simply steal that part of our identity.
In recent years, with the onset of social media, it’s been easier to identify and call out these perpetrators. Cultural thieves who take Black hair, as well as other aspects of Blackness, and treat it with the same respect a white person treats raw chicken: cut it, be unsure as to how it’s seasoned, and then throw it in a large casserole. (I imagine that’s how casserole was invented…a white woman didn’t know how to cook all the ingredients separately so she just said fuck it, and threw it all in a bowl then set the oven to 350…or 375…but I digress)
When white people ask me if I want some of their tuna casserole…
Not surprisingly there was a period when white folks, or anyone else for that matter, just didn’t have time to copy & paste our style so they did what they do best—desperately tried to eliminate Black beauty. During the late 18th century, Black and Creole women in Louisiana were forced to wear head wraps, or tignons, because they wore their hair “in such elaborate ways that it attracted the attention of white men.” And when I say ‘forced’ I mean sanctioned, as in the Louisiana government passed laws to effectively regulate Black women’s hair.
http://www.thevisibilityproject.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Headdress.gif
The “tignon laws” were to not only prevent Black women from getting (unwanted) attention from white men but also to curb white women’s jealousy. At the time, it was customary for white, Spanish, and Creole men to have placées, or openly kept mistresses. And more often than not, they were choosing Black and Creole women to be their mistresses instead of white women. So, let me be clear when I say this: white women were jealous that they couldn’t be the side chick.
Now, I imagine there were some women who resisted these laws but the overwhelming response was, “LOL. Okay, girl.” Black women began to wear bright-colored tignons, proceeded to adorn them with jewels and other accessories, and used different styling techniques to wrap their hair. What was meant to signify Black women as inferior and hide their beauty was actually used to enhance it, thanks to the women’s ingenuity.
In 2016, we call that #BlackGirlMagic