Even as inflation eases, restaurateurs have not seen their costs fall, and are charging customers higher prices as a result.
themessenger.com
Last month consumer prices were just over 3% higher than in July of 2022. Restaurant prices have risen 7.1% in that time, according to the National Restaurant Association.
Price increases are not relegated to a single sector of the restaurant industry, but the rising cost of eating out is evident at popular chains.
In 2019, before pandemic shutdowns snarled supply chains and sent the cost of some commodities into the stratosphere, a Big Mac cost an average of $5.03 in the U.S.. At the beginning of this year, that average price had risen to $6.30, according to Pricelisto, which
tracks the cost of specific items.
The price of a cheese quesadilla from Taco Bell shot up by more than a third, to $6.74 at the beginning of the year from $4.10 in 2019.
To some in the restaurant industry, those increases represent a reckoning.
“We have never thought that food should be as cheap as it always is when you go to chain restaurants, which artificially keep prices low and aren't paying staff what they need to make a living,” said Cheetie Kumar, a chef who owns the southwest Asian and Mediterranean restaurant Ajja in Raleigh, North Carolina.
...
“For years restaurants took for granted things like [fryer] oil and salt,” Reilly said. “Now we could fry three pieces of shrimp and the oil will be the most expensive ingredient on the plate."
Cost increases hit smaller restaurants especially hard because they can't take advantage of steep discounts that come with buying large quantities, said Erika Polmar, executive director of the Independent Restaurant Coalition.
“An independent restaurant doesn’t have the buying power to help drive the price of those ingredients down,” she said.
When commodity prices rise, chefs can compensate by using less expensive items like cheaper cuts of meat. But that change comes with trade-offs, Kumar said.
She said she can use parts of an animal that are not as tender and “need to be cooked to be tender and flavorful,” but “most of those cuts take time and a lot of labor.”
In most instances cost increases leave restaurant owners with two less-than-ideal options: they can absorb those costs or pass them to customers by charging more.
Most restaurants
operate on profit margins of 3% to 5% before taxes, according to an analysis from the National Restaurant Association, leaving little room to maneuver.
“I don't know where the ceiling is,” Reilly said. “Forever there was discussion about a $25 burger. Now it’s how do people feel about a $30 burger?”