Official Lawn and Yard Maintenance Thread- Do You Want Or Have Green Lawn.

West Endian

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
OK so can I get a time frame on this process? As I said I'm new at this.
Honestly, I would seed, fertilize and water wait for growth and mow the lawn...Repeat until I saw the decrease in weed growth.
 

Mo-Better

The R&B Master
OG Investor
Honestly, I would seed, fertilize and water wait for growth and mow the lawn...Repeat until I saw the decrease in weed growth.
Thank you.
 

cli-terminator

Retired ManWhore
BGOL Investor
Make sure to cut your grass at 3 1/2 or higher.

Why you should “Mow High”

1) There is a one-to-one relationship between the height of the grass and the depth of the roots. When you mow at 2 inches, you will have 2 inches of roots. When you mow at 4 inches, you will have 4 inches of roots. The height of the grass drives the depth of the roots.

In areas with winter weather, you probably have cool season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass and ryegrass. These should be mowed at 3 1/2 to 4 inches. For areas with warmer winters, you need to know what kind of grass you have. If you have St. Augustine or bahia grass, you mow at the same higher level of 3 1/2 to 4 inches. If you have Bermuda or zoysia you mow at 1 1/2 to 2 inches.

1a1a1a1apix2.jpg
What about fescue? That mofo grows fast & tall as hell almost immediately after every rainfall. I usually set my riding mower to the 3rd notch or out 5 for the cutting height
 

the13thround

Rising Star
Platinum Member
My yard was fucked up until I started using the Randy Lemmon fertilization schedule.
Its been on point ever since.
But I had to follow it to a T for about two years before I finally achieved optimal results.

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For southern grasses including: St. Augustine, Bermuda and Zoysia
  • FERTILIZE - four times a year:
    Late February-Early March - apply a simple 15-5-10 for an early green-up. Most companies that make slow-release fertilizers also make a non slow-release 15-5-10 that provides for a quick two-week green up before we get to the heart of the fertilizer schedule.

    WARNING: Some people will be tempted to use a weed-and-feed at this time, but if you've been following the GardenLine herbicide schedule, there should never be a need. However, spot weed-and-feed treatments are recommended for those with turf-only landscapes or landscapes that have been established for many years. Most weed-and-feeds contain Atrizine which burns roots of young trees and shrubs.

    Late March-Early April - apply slow-release 3-1-2 ratio fertilizers.
    Recommended formulations:

    19-4-10Nitro Phos Super Turff
    18-4-6Fertilome Southwest Greenmaker
    18-0-6Fertilome's Zero Phosphate Formula
    15-5-10Southwest Fertilizer Premium Gold
    20-0-10Bonide Premium Lawn Food

    Late June-Early July - apply slow-release 3-1-2 ratio fertilizers.
    (recommended formulations 19-5-9, 19-4-10, 18-4-6, 15-5-10.)

    October-November - apply winterizer formulas for winter hardiness. Ratios vary, but make sure they are "winter" or "fall" formulas designed for southern grasses.
    (examples: 18-6-12, 8-12-16, 10-5-14) Will make lawns winter-hardy.

    June-September - if turfgrass looks yellow (chlorosis) or necrotic, use an application of either granular or liquid iron. Once a year should be enough.

  • FUNGICIDE - two times a year:
    July-September - Gray Leaf Spot is a blotchy spot on the grass blade leafs. (mostly on St. Augustine lawns) Use fungicides with active ingredients like Daconil, Consan or Banner.

    September-October - To control the dreaded Brownpatch fungal disease (symmetrical brown circles in the grass) you must prevent it from coming up with a systemic lawn fungicide with Bayleton, Terrachlor, Banner or Benomyl.

  • HERBICIDE - three times a year:
    (Pre-Emergent controls to prevent weeds)
    Late October-Early November - Use two (2) different pre-emergent herbicides, to prevent the weeds that we experience in February and March. First is a pre-emergent with Portrait or Gallery for broadleaf weeds like clover. Second, use a pre-emergent with Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan for grassy weeds like poa anna or annual bluegrass. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

    February-March - Use the pre-emergent controls for grassy weeds again, to prevent such weeds as Crabgrass, Goosegrass and Dallisgrass from popping up late in the spring and summer. Again, use the grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan or Treflan. There is also Barricade, Dimension or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

    May-Early June - One more application of a grassy pre-emergent like Amaze, Betasan, Balan, or Treflan will keep fall weeds from invading from August on. There is also Barricade, Dimension-based or Pendimethlin as a 2-in-1 control.

  • INSECTICIDES — It is our belief on GardenLine, as a way to be kind to the environment, that you do not put down insecticides unless you know you have a problem. However, be prepared during the hot summer months — July through September — to attack chinch bug damage. This will show up as irregular shaped spots in the lawn along the concrete. Any liquid insecticide, like Permethrin or Cypermethrin, will treat the spot well. Then apply a granular insecticide like Deltamethrin or granular Permethrin in a broadcast applicator throughout the rest of the yard.
 

oskie

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
Dandelions has nothing on creeping Charlie. Got it from my neighbors and it took over my yard 2 years ago. I’m using tenacity on it but it will be a few years to kill it off.

d6fdbe-20140709-creepingcharlie03.jpg

I've tried everything on that shit. The best remedy is to walk my yard and manually pull it up by roots then seed and feed.
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
Atlanta, GA well actually College Park. As for the grass type, There's some St. Augustine, fescue, clovers and some wild grass.
St. Augustine is rare in Atlanta. Your dominant grass is most likely Bermuda

The problem you face is that you can’t seed St. Augustine grass and can only buy plugs. Secondly, with Bermuda being the dominant grass, it will kill off St Augustine in Atlanta

With Bermuda grass, never oversees or reseed. Bermuda grass is basically a weed and even if you have small patches of Bermuda, all you need to do is apply a pre-emergent and weed killer. Then the proper fertilizer and Bermuda will grow rapidly and fill in your entire yard.

Fescue is a cool season grass that can’t be reseeded in Atlanta until fall. Seeding in the spring is a waste of money as the young grass blades will die off in the Atlanta heat because the root system would not be long enough yet.
 

TimRock

Don't let me be misunderstood
BGOL Investor
I gotta do some more reading on this and take a few days off of work to get all the necessary stuff. Got a landscaping crew coming to do a cleanup for me, and then i'll do my best to maintain it myself. Got all the tools needed and everything. Might get me a riding mower.
 

the13thround

Rising Star
Platinum Member
I may need a new grass man, I used to have Mexican but I switched to Black guy but he’s not as good. What are y’all using on clovers?
That's the thing.
When you hire people to cut your grass, the fungus from all those other yards are on their blades.
The fungus from the clients yard before you can be spread to your grass too.
Most lawn care services don't wash their lawnmower blades.
 

hocjo2626

Horace C. Jones II
Registered
That's the thing.
When you hire people to cut your grass, the fungus from all those other yards are on their blades.
The fungus from the clients yard before you can be spread to your grass too.
Most lawn care services don't wash their lawnmower blades.

I was just about to post this.

:clap:

Exactly!!! Which is the MAIN reason I take care of my own yard. I love doing it too. It's like going to the barber and the barber not cleaning the clippers before he cuts your hair. Hell no!
 

mcguyver

Rising Star
OG Investor
Dandelions has nothing on creeping Charlie. Got it from my neighbors and it took over my yard 2 years ago. I’m using tenacity on it but it will be a few years to kill it off.

d6fdbe-20140709-creepingcharlie03.jpg


I had this shit taking over my lawn and I sprayed some weed killer for lawns on my lawn..... The fucking weed killer killed my grass.:angry:
 

jasonblacc

Rising Star
Registered
That's the thing.
When you hire people to cut your grass, the fungus from all those other yards are on their blades.
The fungus from the clients yard before you can be spread to your grass too.
Most lawn care services don't wash their lawnmower blades.

I did not know this.
 

lightbright

Master Pussy Poster
BGOL Investor
Crabgrass fucked up my back and front lawn last year. Indian neighbors could care less about their lawn...
Use the crab grass preventer shit, follow the instructions and stay vigilant.... it will work…. also... water your lawn well to soften it or after you get a good rain.... pull them shits out and throw them in a plastic bag .... grab them in a bunch as close to the ground as possible and pull them out..... and use the crab grass preventer.... :yes:

A mixture of dish soap, vinegar, salt and a 2 gallon sprayer for killing weeds.
Well this sure explains why you've got problems .... mofo outside with grandma's curbside remedy.... :smh:

Timely thread, my lawn is in such poor shape. I plan on burning my lawn in about 3 weeks. I've got pine straw, weeds galore, poor soil, poor sunlight.

After that a good weed and feed, a good soaking then follow that up with a good quality seed. The soil is also low on nitrates I'm hoping burning the lawn will help increase its level.

If anyone has any other suggestions please respond.
Just clear what you've got..... get about two inches of new top soil delivered and re-seed..... of if your area ain't too big.... put down the new top soil and sod on top of it


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lightbright

Master Pussy Poster
BGOL Investor
For how long though? I used Round Up on weeds & grass in areas I didn't want any growth but then 2-3 weeks later new growth would start showing back up
Did you use their "Total Ground Vegetation Killer"? ….. that shit works for me.... rarely do I have to respray for six months or more.... shit will begin to wilt in two hours.... I use that shit where ever I want nothing to grow... spray it when it's not going to rain for a couple of days..... voila... after it's dead, use a weed whacker to clean out that dead shit... I spray that shit on these weird weed bushes with big ass leaves that grow like six feet high in like two weeks


.
 

cli-terminator

Retired ManWhore
BGOL Investor
Did you use their "Total Ground Vegetation Killer"? ….. that shit works for me.... rarely do I have to respray for six months or more.... shit will begin to wilt in two hours.... I use that shit where ever I want nothing to grow... spray it when it's not going to rain for a couple of days..... voila... after it's dead, use a weed whacker to clean out that dead shit... I spray that shit on these weird weed bushes with big ass leaves that grow like six feet high in like two weeks


.
I'll give that a try
 

Helico-pterFunk

Rising Star
BGOL Legend
... pull them shits out and throw them in a plastic bag .... grab them in a bunch as close to the ground as possible and pull them out.....




Agreed. I think people often rush lawn weeding and end up pulling 1/3 to 2/3 of the weed itself, and not the majority, if not all, of it. They can be such a hassle at times and it's not a particularly fun part of lawn care. I remember being a kid and grandpa always encouraging just spending a bit longer & using a garden trowel (small blade hand shovel) to get the bulk of the weed(s). Especially assorted, larger weeds. It's also frustrating when yards/lawns vary so much. Certain areas getting little sun exposure ... not draining / airing out fully ... too much shade (or too little) ... etc.






garden-hand-tools-31-3011-64_1000.jpg
 

moblack

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
I just bought this house a few months ago. I have two huge oak trees so my grass doesn't get a lot of sun. I have some work to do. Also dealing with Fire ant mounds. When I get some free time I'm gonna put out some weed and feed. Also plan on putting lime on my yard.
 

cli-terminator

Retired ManWhore
BGOL Investor
What's the recommendation for dealing with fire ant mounds that's also beneficial for the lawn? Only thing I have is a topical granule aimed specifically at dealing with fire ants that you'd put on the mounds themselves to kill em off. I'd prefer to use something more preventative than reactive
 

cli-terminator

Retired ManWhore
BGOL Investor
Found this tool online for removing weeds. Any of y'all ever used anything like it?
71kXoEZbVsL._AC_SL1000_.jpg


https:// www. amazon .com/ Worth-Garden-Stand-Up-Weeder-Removal/dp/B0197TS3IK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1528062324&sr=8-2&keywords=standup+weeder&linkCode=sl1&tag=jo0d12d-20&linkId=f416a2070705eb791ec5b5d55916f047
(remove the spaces for the link to work)
 

LordSinister

One Punch Mayne
Super Moderator
Dallis gras comes every year and it takes forever to kill it. Gotta break out that industrial shit for that. I make 5 gallons and have to spray a 100 x 100 area adjacent to my property to protect it from coming in.

Crabgrass, dandelion, clover, creeping charlie and a host of other shit i have to fight. My shit was lush until my niece moved in and was scared her dog would get cancer. :smh:

She's gone now so i have 3 months of hard work undoing the neglect..

Pre emergent ain't really helping either.

Oh, I have that bullshit Bermuda
 

Sentra52

Star
Platinum Member
What's the recommendation for dealing with fire ant mounds that's also beneficial for the lawn? Only thing I have is a topical granule aimed specifically at dealing with fire ants that you'd put on the mounds themselves to kill em off. I'd prefer to use something more preventative than reactive
I use Orthene powder. Just sprinkle about a tablespoon on the mound and leave it alone. It will kill the entire mound off. If you mess with the mound, they will just move the whole colony. There is no fullproof deterrent that I know of. That's why they keep spreading. Orange oil works temporarily, but they eventually will come back. I do a perimeter treatment with Triazacide in early spring after the last frost and then spot treat whenever a mound comes up.
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
I just bought this house a few months ago. I have two huge oak trees so my grass doesn't get a lot of sun. I have some work to do. Also dealing with Fire ant mounds. When I get some free time I'm gonna put out some weed and feed. Also plan on putting lime on my yard.
Weed and feed is not really good. What type of grass and area you in?
 

moblack

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
Weed and feed is not really good. What type of grass and area you in?
Gulf coast of Texas and st Augustine. The thing I noticed about my neighborhood a lot of the yards are trash. Full of weeds etc. Every front yard has two oak trees so it seems like the grass struggles.
 
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