Official Lawn and Yard Maintenance Thread- Do You Want Or Have Green Lawn.

moblack

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
What's the recommendation for dealing with fire ant mounds that's also beneficial for the lawn? Only thing I have is a topical granule aimed specifically at dealing with fire ants that you'd put on the mounds themselves to kill em off. I'd prefer to use something more preventative than reactive

i just bought some of that. Shoot I was sprinkling it on and the dam ants became active. I’m try again when I’m off.
 

hocjo2626

Horace C. Jones II
Registered
Dallis gras comes every year and it takes forever to kill it. Gotta break out that industrial shit for that. I make 5 gallons and have to spray a 100 x 100 area adjacent to my property to protect it from coming in.

Crabgrass, dandelion, clover, creeping charlie and a host of other shit i have to fight. My shit was lush until my niece moved in and was scared her dog would get cancer. :smh:

She's gone now so i have 3 months of hard work undoing the neglect..

Pre emergent ain't really helping either.

Oh, I have that bullshit Bermuda

Here's your Dallisgrass killer. It is one of the best post-emergent herbicides on the market. Be very careful with it! It will kill your St. Augustine but I believe it's safe on Bermuda (Don't quote me on that though). You could make up a solution with a surfactant and apply it with a foam paint sponge by gently painting the foliage of the Dallisgrass and be extremely careful not to get any on the surrounding turfgrass.

MSMA Target 6 Plus Herbicide

msma.jpg


MSMA Target 6 Plus Herbicide will kill and control dallisgrass (dallasgrass), johnsongrass, barnyardgrass, chickweed, cocklebur, crabgrass, goosegrass, nutsedge, pigweed, puncture vine, and sandburs.

https://www.solutionsstores.com/msm...4585581964297976&utm_content=500%ROAS#156=943
 

hocjo2626

Horace C. Jones II
Registered
What's the recommendation for dealing with fire ant mounds that's also beneficial for the lawn? Only thing I have is a topical granule aimed specifically at dealing with fire ants that you'd put on the mounds themselves to kill em off. I'd prefer to use something more preventative than reactive

Here you go pleighboi. This is awesome for ants, termites and all kinds of other shit. Even chinchbugs. Fantastic for a perimeter pest control around your home. Don't spray it indoors though. Trust me.

:cheers:




3555a.jpg.thumb_1024x1024.jpg
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
Gulf coast of Texas and st Augustine. The thing I noticed about my neighborhood a lot of the yards are trash. Full of weeds etc. Every front yard has two oak trees so it seems like the grass struggles.
Under the tree area you have to really make sure the soil has nutrients because those oak trees eat a lot of the nutrients and can starve out the grass.

Palmetto St Augustine grass can be used under the tree area as this strain is very shade Tolerate.
 

Sentra52

Star
Platinum Member
i just bought some of that. Shoot I was sprinkling it on and the dam ants became active. I’m try again when I’m off.
Wait until right before dark and sprinkle it on the mound. Then leave it alone. Mound will be gone in a day or so. They will feed it to the queen and kill the nest. Do not, I repeat do not disturb the nest or they will not feed and will move the whole nest. Do not water it , just sprinkle and walk away. Do not try to sprinkle on the ants. It masks their scent and the other ants will kill it.
 

LordSinister

One Punch Mayne
Super Moderator
Here's your Dallisgrass killer. It is one of the best post-emergent herbicides on the market. Be very careful with it! It will kill your St. Augustine but I believe it's safe on Bermuda (Don't quote me on that though). You could make up a solution with a surfactant and apply it with a foam paint sponge by gently painting the foliage of the Dallisgrass and be extremely careful not to get any on the surrounding turfgrass.

MSMA Target 6 Plus Herbicide

msma.jpg


MSMA Target 6 Plus Herbicide will kill and control dallisgrass (dallasgrass), johnsongrass, barnyardgrass, chickweed, cocklebur, crabgrass, goosegrass, nutsedge, pigweed, puncture vine, and sandburs.

https://www.solutionsstores.com/msma-target-6-plus-herbicide?msclkid=bcc9297f417b17ee262e77302fd51fae&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=CA Shopping 500%&utm_term=4585581964297976&utm_content=500%ROAS#156=943

That's what I use but it has arsenic I think so the niece was scared of it.

Going back to my mix of that, 2,4-D, Drive XlR8, seed oil and sedge buster. Mix with some dye in a bug sprayer and it knocks all that shit out. It weakens the Bermuda but that shit bounces back fast. The key is to not over spray and do it on a day thats not over 90. Takes about 3 treatments to kill bad Dallis grass.

You can also take a small paintbrush and use the active ingredient in roundup on troublesome areas. Takes time, but it kills any shit dead in 1 treatment.
 

cli-terminator

Retired ManWhore
BGOL Investor
Anyone try the Scott's Turf Builder Triple Action? It's supposed to feed the lawn, kill weeds & prevent fire ants
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
Anyone try the Scott's Turf Builder Triple Action? It's supposed to feed the lawn, kill weeds & prevent fire ants
Not really that good. I will put it this way. It want damage the lawn and you can still have a good looking lawn but there are better products with superior results
 

cli-terminator

Retired ManWhore
BGOL Investor
Not really that good. I will put it this way. It want damage the lawn and you can still have a good looking lawn but there are better products with superior results
What are some of those? I was thinking of hitting up BJs for the Scott's Turf Builder before seeing this post
 

D@mnphins

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
What are some of those? I was thinking of hitting up BJs for the Scott's Turf Builder before seeing this post
Best to hit up your local garden center not a big box store. Take a few strands of grass with you from different areas in your yard. Let them know the sun coverage and they will find you a better product. It may cost more but at least its the right feed or seeds for your yard.
 

D@mnphins

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
Also your state should have an agriculture college that specializes in all the grasses in your area. Hopefully they keep it updated
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
Best to hit up your local garden center not a big box store. Take a few strands of grass with you from different areas in your yard. Let them know the sun coverage and they will find you a better product. It may cost more but at least its the right feed or seeds for your yard.
Good points
 

cli-terminator

Retired ManWhore
BGOL Investor
What type of grass you have
Mostly fescue but there are sections near the front of my yard where Bermuda is king. As for a section in the front of my home I have isolated from the lawn, I'm growing lavender and rosemary to help reduce mosquitoes and other bothersome flying insects from rolling through
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
Mostly fescue but there are sections near the front of my yard where Bermuda is king. As for a section in the front of my home I have isolated from the lawn, I'm growing lavender and rosemary to help reduce mosquitoes and other bothersome flying insects from rolling through
Damn your fescue probably gets bullied by the Bermuda lol
 

cli-terminator

Retired ManWhore
BGOL Investor
Damn your fescue probably gets bullied by the Bermuda lol
Actually it's only dominate towards the front areas of my yard. The rear is very dominant with fescue that grows tall as hell almost immediately after rainfall. It becomes a huge pain in the ass after major downpours cuz there's an area that floods & takes forever to dry out. I could always mow around it but it would become a huge eye sore since my yard isn't fenced in
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
I got my pre-emergent down this week. I put a like extra down to make sure that damn crab grass don’t grow
 

hocjo2626

Horace C. Jones II
Registered
I'm about to head on over to my local Tractor Supply in the morning and get 10 bags of this new organic fert to see how it works rather than the traditional organic Milorganite.

This is Moorganite. I like the play on words. :D

1433528


Moorganite brand fertilizer is an excellent natural source of nutrition for all types of plants. Made from recycled dairy cow and chicken manure, Moorganite is an all-natural, multi-purpose, slow release fertilizer. for best results on lawns, apply 1 to 2 times in the Spring, 1 to 2 times in the Fall when grass is actively growing. for gardens, mix into soil when preparing beds and make an additional application when buds form.

  • All-natural, slow release nitrogen fertilizer for lawns and gardens
  • Organic source of nutrients - derived from recycled dairy cow and chicken manure
  • Creates lush, green lawns and bountiful gardens
  • Covers 2,500 sq.ft.
 

Mask

"OneOfTheBest"
Platinum Member
Any of y’all familiar with these....

or even if you understand the lawn chemical language...

asulam herbicide and this LI - 700
li700.png
 

sickwidit

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
I’m in the northwest. Any suggestions dealing with Clay soil and mossy lawn? I’ve been using a lawn service for a few months and it’s getting better but hard to get the lawn areas really looking good. I think it will take a few seasons of aerating, seeding and fertilizing but trying to figure out how to improve the crappy soil.
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
I’m in the northwest. Any suggestions dealing with Clay soil and mossy lawn? I’ve been using a lawn service for a few months and it’s getting better but hard to get the lawn areas really looking good. I think it will take a few seasons of aerating, seeding and fertilizing but trying to figure out how to improve the crappy soil.
What type of grass do you have?
 

Tito_Jackson

Truth Teller
Registered
@BrownTurd have you ever dethached, aerated and overseeded your lawn? It sounds like this may be what you need to do. Ideally, you should be doing any seeding etc in the Fall to allow for germination over the winter. But, you can temporarily fix your yard in the Spring with those steps. Just remember you should do it again in the Fall.

I just have this done a few weeks ago and I will do it again in September/ October. If you do it, do it soon before the weather gets too hot. Overseeding won't take well in hot sun.
 

sickwidit

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
@BrownTurd have you ever dethached, aerated and overseeded your lawn? It sounds like this may be what you need to do. Ideally, you should be doing any seeding etc in the Fall to allow for germination over the winter. But, you can temporarily fix your yard in the Spring with those steps. Just remember you should do it again in the Fall.

I just have this done a few weeks ago and I will do it again in September/ October. If you do it, do it soon before the weather gets too hot. Overseeding won't take well in hot sun.
I have thatched and aerated a few times before but have not been consistent with it. The more I have been reading I'm finding clay soil keeps so much moisture that it makes it hard for anything but moss to grow. We get tons of moss growing because of the wetness in the grass. Seems the grass cant grow well enough to choke out moss. Will thatching, aerating and overseeding be enough to combat the poor soil? I admit I have been pretty negligent, haven't fertilized consistently or over-seeded consistently. Now that we have the yard in good standing I am turning my focus to the lawn. This year I have started trying Liquid aeration. Only have done one round so far.
 
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Tito_Jackson

Truth Teller
Registered
After you do those three things, you need to add peat moss and soil. This will get your yard going despite the clay.

After you aerate are you overseeding and watering properly? You have to water everyday for at least two weeks after aerating and overseeding unless it rains. Proper aeration makes 3 to four inch plugs in your yard. Many seeds should fall into the holes. The holes will help loosen up the clay. You then need to add the peat moss soil. After that, fertilize with Milorganite, then water everyday. You will see a noticeable difference in two to three weeks.

Its also important to get the right seed for your area. A quick Google search will give you the answer. Most people are safe a tall fescue which grows fast and can withstand heat and cold very well.
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
I have thatched and aerated a few times before but have not been consistent with it. The more I have been reading I'm finding clay soil keeps so much moisture that it makes it hard for anything but moss to grow. We get tons of moss growing because of the wetness in the grass. Seems the grass cant grow well enough to choke out moss. Will thatching, aerating and overseeding be enough to combat the poor soil? I admit I have been pretty negligent, haven't fertilized consistently or over-seeded consistently. Now that we have the yard in good standing I am turning my focus to the lawn. This year I have started trying Liquid aeration. Only have done one round so far.
Honestly it sounds like you have a drainage issue. Clay is prominent in Georgia and fescue and other cool season grasses grow fine in the clay.
 

BrownTurd

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
After you do those three things, you need to add peat moss and soil. This will get your yard going despite the clay.

After you aerate are you overseeding and watering properly? You have to water everyday for at least two weeks after aerating and overseeding unless it rains. Proper aeration makes 3 to four inch plugs in your yard. Many seeds should fall into the holes. The holes will help loosen up the clay. You then need to add the peat moss soil. After that, fertilize with Milorganite, then water everyday. You will see a noticeable difference in two to three weeks.

Its also important to get the right seed for your area. A quick Google search will give you the answer. Most people are safe a tall fescue which grows fast and can withstand heat and cold very well.
Sounds like he may have a drainage problem
 

sickwidit

Rising Star
BGOL Investor
Sounds like he may have a drainage problem
Definitely, we had a flood in our basement and had to add a French drain type deal in the back yard. That has helped a lot but one part of the yard is still soggy after a decent rain. I started the liquid aeration to try and improve the drainage.

I’m gonna have the landscapers come thru this weekend and estimate how much it would be for moss removal, aerating, fertilizing and seeding.
 
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